Last Friday I took Galia out for the first time for a short walk. This was the first time she has been out since her operation. It was a lovely sunny day with temperatures around 18 C, not bad seeing as a couple of weeks ago it was - 18C! Mind you, if it was any colder we wouldn't have been going anywhere with a poorly Galia.
We left just before lunchtime and decided to eat out for the first time this year. Money is tight as Galia wasn't getting paid for being off sick and my income is almost nothing right now. Passing a few places we came across a cafe that I hadn't been to for over three years. I remember it very well as it isn't s fast food joint, but an eating place for poor Bulgarians who can't afford restaurant prices. I also remember it being very much like a soup kitchen, in fact soup is the favourite item on the menu and customers bring their own bread bought from the shop next door to dip in, the rest of the loaf is taken back to their families for the evening meal.Many things are changing in Yambol, but this place hadn't, it was exactly as I remember it, spotlessly clean, busy and nothing but Bulgarian food on the menu. No chips no burgers, pure Bulgarian staple cuisine.
We ordered Shkembe Chorba, chicken soup, 2 Bulgarian kebab (pronounced kebap) three slices of bread each, a triple layered cream sponge cake, rice pudding and sliced tomatoes alongside. The bill was not quite as cheap as it would have beenthree years ago, but came to just over 8 leva and we got a napkin and a couple of toothpicks thrown in as well.
This place is so simple, the food is freshly made daily, the turnover of food during the day is continuous and of course, unlike some expatraites who don't even try it, the Bulgarian food sold and served here is second to none. It feels like home cooked and baked food in many respects. Many foreigners never get to come here, mainly because its not an easy place to find tucked away in the midst of many other little shops.
This calls back the call of communist Bulgaria where everyone is equal in this eating house. The wealthy business person in for a quick snack and, right down to the down and out come to feed themselves here. I could spend hours just sitting in the corner of this place watching the interesting and diverse characters that step through the door.-Picture of what was left of the meal - I didn't think to take a picture before we started - Doh!-
When we had finished our wholesome food, it is required that you take the dirty dishes and cutlery back to a table at the back of the cafe next to the kitchen area. No one left there dirty plates or trays on the the table they ate at before they left. This is so refreshing to see this taking place.
It is a worrying moment as we left thinking how long can this place survive in the fast pace of feast food taking over. It will be a crying shame when it does fall to the steamroller of fast food coming from the American and Western Europeon eating habits. It is at the same time a privilege to be here at time when total change hasn't affected Yambol.
I think the food cafe will survive from any competition the fast food chains may put up against it, for one simple reason. You mentioned quality food, that's competition for any food outlet.
ReplyDeleteThailand has cheap restaurants/food halls in many of its shopping malls. You purchase a coupon and select from a range of simple low priced dishes. The shopping malls have KFC and Pizza restaurants but these Thai food halls tick along quite nicely. A few foreigners use them as well.
Glad to see Galia is starting too feel better. Give her my best wishes.
Thanks for the visit and comment, I hope you're right.
ReplyDeleteYour best wishes conveyed to Galia with thanks returned.
I loathe most fast food places...the only reason I buy anything from the one where I work is because I make one less stop and Its just a few dollars. I would definately eat at your establishment. The last thing I want is to eat at the hotel or some other "we speak English" place. Why go to Bulgaria for all that? And besides, if I have the latest exchange rate, 8 leva is shy of $5.25 dollar or around L3.83 bp to put in an alternative perspective. For a whole meal including desert that isnt bad.
ReplyDeleteI assumed you were only there for a year? You've made frequent trips there I presume? So, I also assume, Bulgaria is modernizing rapidly? I honestly hope they throw out the Westernizing joints. Granted its employing folks. I would rather have my "toys" made in Bulgaria then some Chinese place, poisoning all with their lead paint gimmicks and melamine toxifications. I would see the government making an attempt at factory construction, a hold over from communist ideals.
So, I apologize for knowing little about you other then your last posts from your 3 blogs I read.
I also, in a previous comment had Galias name wrong, I had read your post on Rakia as a name, and am embarassingly apologetic. I am sorry. Though, the comment was an honestly spoken one.
I look forward to your adventures. Maybe you could do a Yambol Cycle Chic blog :-p
No problem William, I appreciate you interest and comments, if I counted the time I have made mistakes with names etc. on comments I'd need a caculater lol.
ReplyDeleteLike most folks I'm not to thrilled with the quality of food put out by the fast food take over , but to tell the truth,sometimes a quick dash in,eat and waddle out,is all some folks have time for, what with the world economy the way it is and both husband and wife are working their fingers to the bone just to get by. For those folks nothing beats a .99 cents value meal.
ReplyDeleteMe ,I'm a meat and potato man myself as most of my blogs seem to include the word food at least a few times. I make a mean veggie soup, myself if I do say so and I would be right at home in the SOUP KITCHEN. Hope it never goes away, and that it's not another year or so till you get back there to eat.
SOOOO glad to hear Galias is doing better and that you are taking such good care of her ,keep it up Malcolm
Hi Martin,
ReplyDeleteI just tried to make a comment, but am not sure if it went through or not...if not, here's another try!
I've been really enjoying reading about your adventures over in Bulgaria!
We have some similar small Czech cafes that seem to be staying in business--the food's very simple, fresh, good and cheap! So, maybe there's hope these types of places will manage OK there in Bulgaria. We have lots of competition from the fast food places, here, but somehow, the Czech cafes stay open and popular!
I'm very happy to hear that Galia's coming along in her recovery, too!!! That's great news!
Best wishes to you both!
Hello Martin , what does it take to get on your blog honour roll and a comment back from you ?? just wondering , I have been feeling like a red headed step child as of late. Malcolm
ReplyDeleteHey Martin,
ReplyDeleteThere's always a demand for quality, healthy food. But I don't think there are ENOUGH people demanding it when they go out to eat. I'd love to have a restaurant in my town that focused on healthy, nutritious cuisine that came from the ground only.
Sadly some of the fault is not just from the US but, also from other larger Banking Nations like the UK, Germany and Netherland (ING my bank). I'm no financier though, it seems to me that in a modern speculations/perspectives and 'investments' per se, that it takes larger banks to provide some financial support to other banks in smaller and not so well off nations. I'm not sure what you do in Bulgaria though, it seems you have some knowledge of RE which would be involved in this sort of business.
ReplyDeleteThis has however nothing to do with what people eat but, helping to provide the funds in which would allow bespoken cafes to thrive. Funds that often originate from those western banks both from borrowing or investment and currency deposits. Hmm, do you see a floundering of the heritages that Bulgaria should hold dear, or are they all suffering under an attenuation of all things dearest?
William:
ReplyDeleteI really don't like banks William, that's quite an understatement, but I know they are essential in a Capitalist Society, which is basically what Bulgaria is now. Funding from Banks for Global Fast Food Chains are here already, they tend to favour them as they success is guaranteed with worldwide marketing backup. The thing is Bulgarians love fast food and are easy prey, that's the fear. They won't know what they will miss until it has gone!
It sounds a lot like the stolovaya's here in Kazakhstan. Very cheap food. Traditional Russian fair Not always good quality but sometimes you find a really good one with a grandma in back cooking up a storm. Everything is self-service and they go back to the Soviet tradition when people ate at cafeterias at work because no one could afford restaurants. And everyone goes there. The top managers and the lowly workers all eat together which is sort of lovely.
ReplyDeleteMartin
ReplyDeleteDid I upset you? :) Never accused you of bank loving.
That would be sort of my point. I realize maybe I shootin' at what I can't see but, where once it may have been small Bulgarian bank making small Bulgarian loans that Bulgarians could afford, now foreignors or Bulgarians themselves receive loans that would not otherwise been given. Eh, big money drives little guy out. Little guy still may get loan but, only under big guy. Nevermind. I am finding it difficult to make my point.
Hope I didn't offend you.
William:
ReplyDeleteNever for a moment did you upset me William. I just find that trying to understand where money comes from is not as simple as you think, you haven't put Mafia funded businesses into the equation here. There are allegedly more into business financing than all the banks put together. I see it here on the streets of Yambol which is infiltrated with Mafia. The banks fund car purchases and small businesses and the Mafia take care of the big businesses, that's how it seems to work here. No doubt there is some sway in this area for global based chains coming here. I think there are definite links with Mafia outside Bulgaria.
This aside, I am just a simple chap making observations and notes on what I see and hear here, that's it.
Regards and absolutely no offence taken.
I was abt to say 8 leva (4,07 euro) is value for what u n Galia had but it could better. My lunch at the cafetaria in the office building cost abt 10 euro's. Usually I'm craving for a warm bowl of fragrant soup at 12 noon. The rest on display r cold food :-/
ReplyDeletelike salades n sandwiches. Last week I made my own sandwiches with crunchy iceberg lettuce (1,09 a crop)n ham from a tin(1,69). It was flavourful n tasty n I'm encouraged to try other varieties n saved a bundle in the long run - hehe.
At most train stations there r warm snacks from the automate, operated by inserting coins. They smell so good at the rushing evening hour when most commuters r feeling cold n hungry. It's selling like hotcakes but I hv managed to avoid cultivating a habit for them (1,50 to 2,00 for 4 bites).
The soup kitchen u mentioned reminded me of hubby's trip to Rumania 3yrs back. The restaurant of a family inn was spartan but they served good honest food with fresh produce. A nice steak with green salads, soup n a coffee cost abt 15,00 euro. That's the charm of the "old" country. In NL we would hv to fork out 40 euro minmum for that pleasure.
Btw, u mentioned ur dyslexia. Do u use any tools/aid to unburdened the task of reading n writing ? I happened to watch on TV that dyslexic patients gained much improvements when they try reading text with a plastic sheet. They come in various colours to suit each individual. Thought I just forward this info to u :-)
Dutchie:
ReplyDeleteAgain thanks for your comment.
Sounds like you Romanian reference was exactly like this place.
Three years ago, the last time I dined here, the cost was about half the price I paid the other day. I actually wrote an account of it which I can't find right now. When I do come across it I'll compare. Generally most things have doubled in price in that time here.
You also have to bear in mind that most food eaten at luchtimes here is home made and in a the form of a packed lunch - again cost and undying habits are the main reasons for this.
A pooint on dyslexia - I am acutally a qualified teacher of Dylexic learners as well have having mild dyslexia myself. There are many forms of dyslexia and yes I do use aids but thay are prescribed by me for me and may not work for others. I have used the technique of coloured plastic layers over text for previous students I have taught. This is one of many aids that may or may not help depending on the type of dyslexia. Dyspraxia is also a big hangup and unrecongnised area for many. Did you know that 1 in 3 people have some form of dyslexia?
thank you for the info and sharing
ReplyDelete