A Weekend Of Violent Storms In Skalitsa

We had a weekend of non-stop storms that scared the life out of Galia in the outback of the Bulgarian countryside based Skalitsa farmhouse. Being a town girl she is used to the protection of many building around her so when there is a violent storm she is shielded from natures extremes of weather by man made elements. This last 48 hours was a first hand experience for her of the powers of nature.

It really was a humdinger of a weekend for me, I just love the extremes of weather and was outside feeling it for the most unblocking drainage pipes during the deluge of rain that came from a seeming ocean full above. Having been through weather like this before alone I knew that there would be some damage, but is would be soon repaired or more like patched up, as it always is in Bulgarian villages. The way in which the trees bend to extremes in the almost tornado force winds is quite a feat of nature especially being born of a full set of leave that act as sails. Galia was concerned of the extent of the swaying and bending, but then if they didn’t I explained, they’d just snap!

The storms one after another last from Saturday midday through to around midnight. We counted the number of storms that cascaded upon us to around 6. Throughout that time we had no power as unbeknown to us the power cable had been severed with trees beating on them. It wasn’t until Sunday lunchtime that we realised that it was only our street in Skalitsa that had been cut off for 24 hours when an massive cherry picker came to chop down the culprit trees across the road from us to free up the electric cables that were entangled. The whole neighbourhood came along to watch on this now sunny Sunday.

Galia was concerned about the farmhouse and I was concerned about my sweet corn and melons. We had water pouring in from the ceiling of the bathroom, but that’s okay it is a wet room in any case. The septic tank had flooded and half a metre of water was standing on the concrete surface so it was out with nothing on expect a pair of underpants wading through the flood water in torrential wind and rain to clear a drainage point that have clogged up with branches that had fallen from the linden tree.

Would you believe that during these storms on Saturday afternoon we had a barbecue! The summer house has a little a metre square tin roof, but this wasn’t enough to prevent the forced rain and hailstones that hit from a vertical angle in the gusts of up to 80 mph winds. I was forced to withdraw right into the summerhouse and continue amongst the tremendous noisy of weather that was around us. I was having a ball, what fun, living a bit on the edge is something that just hits the mark, Galia thinks otherwise, but then she ate the barbecued tikvichki and pigs ears and thanked me for making the effort as we ate dinner under candle light. We went to bed at 8:30 that evening and just listened for ages at nature at work around us

The series of violent storms wasn’t the highlight of the weekend though. After the wild weather the calm and another simple yet effective food was experience on Sunday. There was Dill Potatoes, a basic dish knocked up in forty minutes of which I have given details of this dish and recipe in my Herbsways blog. Then there was the simple strawberry milk shake made from this morning’s goat’s milk from next door, freshly picked strawberries picked from from the farmhouse grounds and a touch of sugar. A bit of technology from a liquidiser once we got our electric back and Galia had her first every Strawberry milk shake. This was another weekend that was different and not expected in July, which is meant to be the dry season. My well is also very happy for the extra water, which again was taken back to Yambol with us along with all the other home grown vegetables. I won’t mention the carrot that disappeared before I could take a picture of it and I won’t mention Galia’s name!

A Classic Bulgarian Misunderstanding

Cases of classic misunderstandings Bulgarians has caused all sorts of problems over the years and it still happens. There was one prime classic misunderstanding that wasn't realised until this week and reminded me that these misunderstandings will probably never end here in Bulgaria.

Just to give some background here, the previous owners of Skalitsa farmhouse and smallholding off where an elderly couple called Marina and Mitko. They moved in with their son to the town of Stara Zagora. Marina couldn’t wait for town life, but Mitko didn’t want to move, he loved village life and was in tears when we signed the contract. This is the case for many couple here, women want the town and the men want the country life.

Last year we were at the Skalitsa Farmhouse sitting out in the garden. We heard the iron garden gate creak as it always does to warn us of visitors. We waited a moment for the visitors to walk a short distance and peer around the corner as we all watched. It turned out that the visitors was Marina, the woman who used to live here with here son. They were in Skalitsa and though they’d pay us a visit out of courtesy as they were here.

And so the talking started. I wondered where Mitko her husband was and naturally asked. The answer given was that, ‘He is above us’ with a finger pointing to the sky. I was quite shocked with the though that he had passed away and gave my condolences.

The message that Mitko had died so much was passed on to my nearest neighbour the next day with mention that it must have been the heartbreak of having to move away from the village life he loved. No more was thought about it at the time.

A year on and my neighbour Sacho told me that he was sure he had seen a ghost a couple of days before. It was evening and he was putting his goats in for the night and he saw Mitko wondering around his old home. There are many ghost stories in the village and this was another one that he though he saw. He told his wife Rosa what he had seen and again, they put it down to Mitko paying a ghostly visit to his old loved smallholding.

Sacho went on to say that Rosa went to work in the school the next day and told others of the story of Mitko’s ghostly figure wandering around the previous evening. She was duly informed that there was no ghost of Mitko around, but Mitko in real life who had come this year to see old friends in the village and went to see his old home!

Sacho said that he spoke to Mitko yesterday and he was very much alive. He then asked me who said that he had died. I explained that his son said that he was above us and pointed his finger to the sky. Sacho then burst out laughing saying that Mitko was up above us in the apartment block he was living in Stara Zagora. He didn’t come to Skalitsa last year but stayed at home – That’s where he was!

Well the misunderstanding lasted a year and I’m glad Mitko is still alive and kicking albeit still not very happy with town life. As for ghosts, well no recent additions recently, but lot so stories from neighbours of existing ones to be told on a cold and still winter night – That’s a long way off right now.

Stressing Out Over Garden Roses

For the last 5 weeks all I can think about is pruning the roses in the farmhouse garden. There are a few reasons for this; the first is going back two winters ago. I was living full time in the farmhouse then and in the winter the roses were pruned and buried well in time for the cold winter ahead. This is the Bulgarian way and it works very well. The following spring right though to December there was a single rose picked for Galia every single morning we were there.

Then there was last winter, I was working away from the farmhouse and didn't get to prepared the roses for winter, no pruning no covering them up with earth as they are left to face the elements throughout winter. This spring and all through the year right up to now the roses were very poor, in fact hardly any worthy of picking for a Bulgarian princess.

The thought of going through three Bulgarian seasons without vibrant perfumed Bulgarian roses in the garden is something that I never want to happen again. It was my intention to prune and bury some five weeks ago, but we had guest in the farmhouse and for the last week I have slipped a disc in my back, so it still hasn’t been done. We have been very lucky there has only been one or two night that the temperatures have fallen below zero, so no damage done so far. There is however the forecast of a cold break in the weather and snow on its way for Christmas Day. We do not plan to go to the farmhouse initial after Christmas what with family festivities and my bad back.

Throughout Christmas the roses will be playing on my mind and frustration not being able to physically do what needs to be done. We just hope that there is a speedy recovery and this garden chore can be done within the next week, even is it means clearing the snow out of the way to do it.

Does anyone else have such a strong urge to do garden to the point of getting stressed out about it?

Speaking Bulgarian Is A Must Here

Speaking Bulgarian is a must if you intend to live in Bulgaria, not least just out of respect for the country you choose to live in. How would you feel if someone came to your home country and just didn’t bother try and speak your language? Without any knowledge of Bulgarian you will be spending a lot of money for many reasons, including getting conned by Bulgarian who take advantage of you. I’ve seen it happen.

Since coming here I am quite proud of the fact that I can quite easily get by with my Bulgarian, in fact it only took a couple of weeks to be able to manage simple greeting, a little small talk, shopping and getting around. I’m not that intelligent and have dyslexia so if I can do it so can others. I had to try really hard to set aside time to learn by various methods. Labelling all the items in the home, having the Cyrillic alphabet on the wall in my sitting room staring at me all the time. Also, and not successfully, reading language tutorial books, tapes and CDs, all of which I stopped after the first 10 pages because they just didn’t work for me.

The most effective way to learn was to visit neighbours and although in the beginning there was hour just sitting there like a lemon, there is a transition of just picking up a few odd words, then to a few sentences and right now, understanding most of what the conversations are about and contributing to a degree. This has taken three years but then I have had an advantage of working and living with other Bulgarians for a couple of years now. There has not been any formal tuition in all of that time.

The language is difficult, many other try really hard but just can’t get off the ground with it, but at leas they try and can gain respect from other Bulgarian for the effort they make.

It comes to pass that now I speak English on very rare occasions, it can be weeks that pass and no English is spoken, then when it is called for I forget simple English words like air conditioner or wood burner, that is very strange for me. Recently I had family over from England, they had to keep reminding me of English words and found it funny that every so often I would speak in Bulgarian to them without even realising it.

This coming weekend is very different however. We are off to our Skalitsa Farmhouse for the weekend as usually, but I am accompanied with four Bulgarian women. The include Galia of course my partner, Poliya her niece and her two daughter,s Chrissie and Slivia. Chrissie is 18 and Silvia is 9 years old and they both speak English which is a mandatory requirement in taught schools now for all children in schools here. The idea is that I speak English all weekend to them so their language skills can improve. That to me is going to be very difficult for me, as I haven’t done that for over three years. A relaxing weekend it won’t be; I will be mentally exhausted by Sunday evening trying to speak English all the time.

There is one thing for sure, if I hadn't made the effort to learn Bulgarian there would be total isolation from everything in Bulgaria other than other expatriates who don't try to learn. And to all who know me, that would be the last thing I want.

Bulgarian Polecats - A New Look

Friday evening and we were sitting outside on the Skalitsa Farmhouse terrace listening to the complete silence that surrounded us in the dark. Then there was a little clutter in one of the outbuilding as we assumed that a cat was just making life difficult for the mice. The clutter sounded again out of the silence making it such an obvious noise. this sound it had moved 10 metres in further down the the big farm building nearer to were we were relaxing.

I knew it wasn't a cat but didn't want to get Galia stressed as she continued to turn her head towards the sound.

When I first came here any noise scared me, the reason for this was that I just didn't know what was causing the noise. Now I am much wiser and most sounds are accounted for in the country. This sound was the sound of a polecat, the European polecat. A common resident in these parts and the reason for many sleepless nights from the past.

I have caught a few in traps and killed them before, as they have stolen eggs from my chickens and killed chicks but that was in the past. I now know we have to live with them and apart from a few eggs and chicks due to my lack of experience not securing their environment properly. And a bit of noise, that now is no trouble as I know what it is; they have as much right to live here as we do.

This evening I knew the pole cat was about as we waited for the silence to be broken once again. To calm Galia I turned another light on outside the rear of the garage/outbuilding. There are roof tiles placed leaning along the base of the outside wall and little be known to us there was a surprise waiting for us.

Once again a little clutter by the garage now and as we turned to look, we saw a little head, not to dissimilar to a kitten's head poke out from one of the roof tiles. We just froze looking at this pole cat who did the same thing to us. There was some meat on the table we were sitting on and a piece was broken of and thrown toward the animal. The polecat didn't budge as the meat bounced its way towards it. We threw another meat morsel, which landed closer and the polecat walked towards it. It was now in full view and although I have seen these close up dead in my hands it isn't the same seeing it move gracefully with its streamlined body covered in dark brown silky fur with highlighted tints and a long bushy, rather untidy tail. This beautiful animal sniffed and took the meat in its mouth. and walked slowly back to its little roof tile hideout. We were quite amazed how bold this polecat was as we threw even more meat pieces toward it.

After a short while the polecat retreated and we didn't see it for the rest of the evening although we would have loved to. The subject of pole cats was now raised and Galia I found wasn't stressed as she sees these on a daily basis in the factory in Yambol where she works. She went to on to say that they were looked upon as good luck by the workers there and they shouldn't be hunted trapped or killed as it would bring bad luck. The Bulgarians view is that they should live as neighbours here both in town and country, they do more good than harm by keeping the mice population down and the price of a few eggs as reward is a small fee for their services. Besides that, they are handsome animals.

So, if you are disturbed in your house by scampering feet above or below your house, you know what it is a European pole cat. Don't put the traps out and waste your time looking to kill them, try and live with these beautiful creatures. I now regret trapping and killing these polecats before now and come to think of it I did get lots of bad luck after the event!

4 Eggs

It is the lack of free thought and doing things that make sense that caught me by surprise on this beautiful weekend in Skalitsa with Galia and Poliya her cousin. They came here after work on Friday evening joining up with me for a weekend of total relaxing with music, food. drink and dance.

It was Saturday evening when Poliya started to get together all the ingredients needed for a meal of baked rabbit and potatoes with honey based pancakes. It came to pass that everything was there, yes, including the rabbit that was caught and skinning in Yambol, except for the eggs. She presumed because we live in the village with chickens everywhere you look that eggs needn’t have been bought for this weekend. She was almost right but I had used the last two for the Skalitsa Banitsas I made earlier that morning, and were they delicious.

So, no eggs and the shop just a stone’s throw away could I go and get some. This was such a simple request but brought about a major rethink about how most of us have been controlled by the commercialism and how you think.

I asked how many eggs she wanted but the only reason was to find out whether I should buy 6 or 12 eggs. Poliya said that she only wanted 4 for the pancake dish so the question was answered; I was to get half a dozen as I started making my way down to the shop.

It was only 10 metres down the road and walking amongst all the free range animals, running, grazing or flying when a sudden though from this English head of mine. Why the hell do I want to buy six eggs, Poliya only want four for the recipe? Then another thought can to mind. What would happen to the other two eggs? I knew exactly what would happen to them, they would remain in the fridge for another week until another egg based recipe, in each case more than two would be required and anther six would be bought!

Why buy six! It was a life of being brought up on marketing standards, eggs come in dozens, and in England you can’t buy less than six! That is ridiculous, what a fool am I to fall for this time and time. In Bulgaria, if I want one egg I can buy it, that is normal.

With this I bought four eggs brought them back and another step forward into freethinking and away from institutionalised ways

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My Skalitsa Farmhouse for rent - An Advertisement

Farmhouse for Rent in Skalitsa Village - SE Bulgaria (Now with Internet connection)

About Skalitsa Village

The village of Skalitsa is located in Southeast Bulgaria. Its nearest towns are Yambol and Elhovo, Radnovo all around 30 minutes drive from the village.

Yambol and Elhovo towns are thriving and continue to be rejuvenated by popularity and investment from many foreigners and Bulgarians. Radnovo is untouched by foreigners and is a relatively unknown but very attractive town.Skalitsa is one of the larger and more important villages in the area and is an up and coming attraction with available investment from Europe into the infrastructure and facilities there.

There has been a major clean up and fresh look in the village with the school having been renovated and money other public building having been given a face-lift. There is also brand new theatre/concert hall that opened in the village centre last year that attracts artists and performers nationally and from around the world.

It has everything you need in the village including two garages, post office, a doctor and dentist surgery, two veterinaries, a chemist, a variety of grocery/food stores, a clothing/linen/shoe shop and a beautiful orthodox church, which celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2007.

During the summer months, (and there are many of them) there is local produce sold from stalls in the village centre park - yes it has a big public park in the village centre as well.

It also has a unisex hairdressing shop and many bars scattered around in and around the village where you can get refreshments, snacks and most cater for basic food provisions.

Skalitsa also has its own bakery, window double-glazing factory, metalwork factory, wood-processing factory and around the village many new vineyards have been planted from private investment.

Bus and taxi services run regularly from the village centre to all satellite villages and major towns such as Radnovo, Yambol, Elhovo and both Nova and Stara Zagora.

It is not widely known but Skalitsa is famed for its healing stones, which are geographically positioned at a point where two magnetic fields cross. There is only one other place on earth where this happens! Research has been made on the site along with media attention, all present evidence of the stones having healing properties for arthritis, rheumatism and various other related and unrelated ailments.

There have been two sets of film makers in the village last year, one film crew from Hollywood USA, choosing Skalitsa for its magnificent setting on a raised rock base within the Thracian Plain. Skalitsa actually mean little rock. This was chosen over other Balken countries including Croatia, Romania and Former Republic of Czechoslovakia, the Skalitsian scenery could not be compared with!

The Farmhouse Location

The farmhouse is located high up on the edge of the village a pleasant ten-minute walk to the village centre and about the same to the healing stones. There is Ivan and Maria who own the bar/general grocery store which sells everything you would need which is only some 300 metres from the farmhouse. Of course the main towns of Yambol, Elhovo and Radnovo are only 30 minutes drive have big supermarkets where you can stock up with provisions if you wish.

Halfway up the side of a quiet tarmac road away from the main road, (which is quiet as well) you will find it nestling naturally. It has purposely been made to blend in complete harmony with character of other farmhouses that are scattered around the village.

The views form the farmhouse grounds are extensive over the countryside and from the garden and most days you can have stunning views of the hills and even the mountains in the north.

The Accommodation

The Grounds

As you enter the farmhouse along the white concrete path you will be entering a garden purposely retaining very much the Bulgarian style with the farmyard and cart tucked away under the outhouses shelter. Looking beyond the garden through the vineyard trellis with uninterrupted view of the undulating Bulgarian countryside.

It is full of practical but beautiful plants and shrubs and of course the wine and rakia producing vines that cover the main area above you. Underneath the vines is the patio area, well protected from the direct heat of the strong Bulgarian summer sun and a perfect place to relax with a cool refreshing drink accompanied by the wonderful nature surrounding you.

Inside the Farmhouse

Once you enter the farmhouse this is where the Bulgarian style mixes and compliments with the western European comforts and modern lifestyle. The renovation was made to a high standard with kitchen, bathroom, living room and bedroom now providing a very comfortable living with double glazed units throughout. Throughout the farmhouse it still keeps very much to Bulgarian traditional style is decoration and taste. In a nutshell, everything is to modern western standards but with Bulgarian character written all over it.

The Hall

This carpeted internal entrance for the house is a separate room leading to the other three rooms. Fitted with a Skalitsa made white aluminium door netted fly screen door, this provided draught free winters and ventilation options during the hot spring, summer and autumn months. It has a clothing rack for hanging outdoor clothing and ample space for outdoor shoes to be kept. Also there is a cabinet, drawer and some shelving for storing keys, purses, hand luggage, etc.

The Kitchen

The kitchen has all white goods provided, fridge, freezer, washing machine, modern electric oven and grill, gas hob, extractor hood above and a microwave oven. The kitchen is big enough to cater as a dining area with a dining table and four chairs to fitting comfortably. All crockery and kitchen accessories are provided.

The Bathroom

The modern bathroom suite is a brand new extension of the farmhouse. It is a fully tiled with a large bath and fixed wall shower unit with shower curtain surround. There is a wide bathroom ceramic basin and low flush toilet with a convector heater if needed. A wall cabinet with mirror doors is fixed above the basin.

The Bedroom

The comfortable carpeted bedroom has one double king-sized bed with headboard and bedside drawer. The view from the window gives a glorious sight of the vines, garden and uninterrupted views of the wonderful Bulgarian countryside beyond. It is fully furnished with dressing table with full mirror and quality wooden wardrobe imported from France. Also there is an electric convector heater if needed.

The Living Room

The luxurious and homely living room is cosy furnished with good quality imported furniture. There is a new wooden floor and ceiling with a traditional Bulgarian patterned carpet. Placed within are two\sofas, which will accommodate six guests. One sofa converts into a comfortable double bed. You will find a high quality Sony music system with CD, cassette and radio facilities. A colour television is also provided for terrestrial viewing.

As part of the fittings there is also a freestanding traditional wood-burning stove with a well-stocked supply of local wood in the garage retaining the Bulgarian atmosphere. On the bookcases you will find a good variety of books, music cassettes and CDs that are also there for you to enjoy.

Extras

*Food and daily supplies of all provision from shoes to bread provided can be bought from the local shop only 300 metres away.

*Milk, (from cow or goat or sheep) eggs and sirine (traditional white Bulgarian cheese) can be bought from neighbours at below shop prices.

*Electric water and bottled gas for heating/cooking are provided for in the price for guests staying less than 28 days.

*All bedding and towels are provided

*A weekly laundry and cleaning service is provided id required |(a fee of €15 is charged for this)

*There is a regular garden maintenance from the owners and food from the garden is offered free form the extensive grounds during the growing season.

Why Rent here?

This renovated farmhouse gives the best of both worlds, tranquillity of Bulgarian village life with as all the comforts of a home from home. Whether for holiday, a base for house hunting or a place to stay whilst your property is being renovated this is an ideal place to stay at a fraction of the cost of hotels and bed and breakfast accommodation.

Not sure whether Bulgaria or village country life is for you? Use the farmhouse to test the water with Bulgarian village life without total initial commitment - there are special rates for extended stays over 28 days!

Look at out Competitive rates Daily rates:

€20 leva per night all seasons
Weekly rates
March, April, May, June - €125
July, August, September - €140
October, November - €112
December, January, February - €100

For extended stays of 28 consecutive days or more the following rates apply:

€400 for each 28 days all year round (€100 per week) Guests staying for 28 days or more will have to cover nominal electric, bottled gas and water bills.

Testimonals

August 2007

Dear Martin and Galiya,

We just had to say how much we enjoyed out stay at your house. This was the first time in Bulgaria and everyone was so helpful and friendly we really didn't want to go back.

Just a few points, a fly screen or curtain should be installed on the front door like you have done to the windows, it was a problem with them getting in the house. Also you might consider getting English television in the farmhouse, we did miss that.

That aside, thank you so much for letting us use your Bulgarian home we envy you living there. Might see you again next year after we get married.

Rik and Maggie

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October 2007

Hi Mart and Gal,

Bulgaria for the first time for us and it was a horrendous time in Sofiya being hassled by taxi people. thank God for Christu you taxi friend who you booked for us. He was our gardian angel before he arrived we weren't too sure wether this country was for us! By the time we got to scalitza and you greeted us we had calmed down and the rakia you presetned to us was quite a tonic. For the week or so we were there we didn't want to go home and we are now seriously looking for a house for us in the area. Stefan loved the animals there, he doesnt stop tlaking about them a week after getting back to yorkshire. Galia is lovely and her bulgarian ways was an added bonus for us when we needed her. nothing was to much trouble. We hope to return and see both of you again but hopefully with out own dream home and we can give you our rakia. Give our love to Maria, Ivan Sasho and Rosa for being such warm neighbours, we had put on weight since being there.

love dave linda and stefan

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September 2007

Mart and Galia,

just a quick massive thank you for being such warm and generous hosts. We adore you house and our 4 days there really wasn't enough for us. We would dearly like more time there next year rather than opting for the coast, that was a mistake we wont make again. We have fallen in love with Skalitza in that short time there.

Will be in touch through email

Phil and Sam (Sam is now expecting! Will update you later)

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April 2008

Joe and I would love to thank you so much for making our holiday so special. Our previous trip as you know wasn't for us and you have restored our faith in Bulgaria with your hospitality and understanding of much that we didn't know about in Bulgaria. We have been educated by both you and Galia.

May well see you again in the autumn if you can fit us in

Many Thanks again

Love

Joe and Rose